THE GIST OF THIS ARTICLE

• Page 1　Schedule, What is Aoi Matsuri?
• Page 2　Saioh Dai 斎王代
• Page 3　Parade1: Chokushidai Retsu 勅使代行列
• Page 4　Parade2: Saiohdai Retsu 斎王代列
• Page 5　Shato no Gi 社頭の儀
• Page 6　Ceremonies prior to Aoi Matsuri
• Page 7　How to see the parade?

The following is the contents of this article.

What is Aoi matsuri festival?

Aoi matsuri festival is formally called “Kamo no Matsuri” because Kamo shrines hold it. The word “Kamo shrines” means Shimogamo shrine and Kamigamo shrine.

Shimogamo shrine’s formal name is “Kamo mioya jinjya shrine” and that of Kamigamo shrine is “Kamo Wake Ikazuchi jinjya shrine”. Both of them has “Kamo”, so we call both shrines “Kamo shrine” as a whole.

These shrines hold Aoi matsuri festival on the second “bird day (We put Chinese zodiac signs like bird, tiger, and other animals on the days in calendar.)” on May of ancient Japanese lunar calendar. In the present day, they hold it on 15th on May.

Aoi matsuri festival is one of “The three famous festivals in Kyoto (the others are Gion matsuri festival and Jidai matsuri festival)” and also known as one of “The three famous Chokusai in Japan”

Chokusai is a matsuri (festival) held under the order from the Imperial court. At Chokusai, the emperor sends “Chokushi”, the messenger of the Emperor to a shrine that holds Chokusai. Of course in Aoi matsuri, the emperor sends “Chokushi” to Kamo shrines.

In Heian period, “Matsuri” means nothing but Kamo no Matsuri among aristocrats. In Edo period, people called Kamo no Matsuri “Aoi matsuri” gradually because the participants of Kamo sai festival put leaves of Aoi, the crests of these shrine, on their outfits.

Reservation seat to enjoy Aoi Matsuri　2025

On 4/8

The reserved seats for individual tourists starts on 4/8, 10:00. Check the website of Kyoto Kanko Navi (in English) out.

Kyoto Imperial Palace 京都御苑

Shimogamo shrine 下鴨神社

Kamigamo shrine 上賀茂神社

たけちよ

Reservation seats are available at Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine.

Must sees みどころ

Shedule 葵祭日程

Ceremonies prior to Aoi Matsuri 前儀

The Parade 葵祭当日　5月15日

Ceremonies after Aoi Matsuri 後儀

The history of Aoi matsuri festival

The history of Aoi matsuri dates back to 6th century and it was called Kamo no Matsuri, a private Matusri of Kamosha. Kamosha means two shrines for the Kamo clans. Today they are known as Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine.

七里ヶ浜親方

Kamosha means Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine as described before.

Kamigamo shrine mentions that the Matsuri began when Kamowake Ikazuchi no Kami, the deity enshrined in the shrine, appeared in Mt. Koyama: People welcomed him with the horses ornamented with Aoi as indicated in an oracle.

On the other hand, Shoku Nihongi (『続日本記』) and put it:

In the era of emperor Kinnmei, there were many natural disasters and droughts. The emperor asked a fortune-teller named Urabe no Ikiwakahiko about the cause. (Japanese emperor is a ruler of the country and also the highest ranked priest in Shinto, the religion which has gratitude for the nature that gives us harvest. So, if anything wrong about the nature occurred, he is responsible for it.) The fortune-teller told him the cause of the natural disasters and droughts. It was a curse of Kami (Shinto deity) of Kamo. The emperor asked him to hold a ritual to ease the Kami of Kamo. This is the begging of Aoi matsuri festival as Kamo no Matsuri.

シカさん

It is not “curse” exactly. In this case, “deities curse the country” means that rituals don’t take place and the country doesn’t work as expected.

The emperor asked Ikiwakahiko to hold ritual and performed a horse racing in the sacred place where the deity was in. The each jockeys with a boar mask rode on the horses ornamented with bells. After the race, people enjoyed the fertility.

Even today, we can enjoy this horse racing. It was inherited in Aoi Matsuri as Souma no Gi in Kamogamo shrine and Yamagake in Miareno of Kamigamo shrine (This one is not open to us.).

七里ヶ浜親方

They devoted their energy to make the Kami entertained. This is one of the aims of Matsuri. Our ancestors found Kami behind nature and natural phenomenon and believed it behaves like them.

Check out the link below.

Why is Gion Matsuri celebrated? 祇園祭の意味を英語で説明

Gion matsuri has changed in many ways but its aim reminds the same for 1150 years. In this article, you can learn the exact reason why Gion matsuri is celebrated.

kyotokankoyagi.com

2019.06.20

In early 8th century, Shoku Nihongi describes many people came to Kyoto to enjoy Kamo no Matsuri and a low asked Kokushi (a kind of a prefectural governor) to make sure the Matsuri took place properly.

In 810, a conflict happened between emperor Saga and retired-emperor Heijyo gave rise to “the two Imperial courts.” Emperor Saga asked the deities of Kamosha to solve the conflict. In the end, it settled down and he sent his daughter as a priestess to Kamo no Matsuri in order to show his gratitude. This is the beginning of Kamo Sai-in the priestess involved in Kamono Matsuri on behalf of emperor. Today, Saioh-dai, a lady plays a role of Sai-in, participate in Aoi Matsuri.

Kamo no Matsuri was considered as one of the most important matsuris (festivals) in terms of the ancient Japanese law.

On the same year, it became one of Chokusais. Chokusai is a matsuri held under the order of the Imperial court. And in 819, it was added to the four Chushis. Chushi is important Matsuri next to Senso Daijo Sai, the Matsuri held when an emperor accede the throne.

As described, Kamo no Matsuri used to be a private Matsuri. In addition to it, it was listed as Chokusai, the national Matsuri. In a nutshell, there are two kinds of Matsuri.

A private ones were Miare no Matsuris in which people welcome a new-born deities. Without them, Kamo no Matsuri didn’t take place.

七里ヶ浜親方

Even today, this type of Matsuri is alive: Mikage Matsuri of Shimogamo shrine and Miare Shinji of Kamigamo shrine.

 

After these Matsuris, Kamo no Matsuri was commened:

Instead of Sai-in Gokei, Saihodai Gyokei no Gi takes place today. She makes Harae and Misoghi in Kamigamo or Shimogamo shrine.

Rotoh no Gi made a parade and Shatoh no Gi was held in Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine individually. In the old days, people enjoyed Rotho no Gi as described in The Tale of Genji.

In 13th century, the Imperial courts and the aristocrats were losing their political power and Kamo no Matsuri was on the decline and Kamo Sai-in was abolished.

In the 15th century, Onin no ran, the largest-scale civil war in Japan, devastated Kyoto and Kamo no Matsuri ceased to exist in the 16th century. After that, it was recovered a few times only to fail. Finally, it was restored as Aoi Matsuri in 1953.

In Shinbutsu Shugo

Kamosai don’t allow the co-existence of Shinto and Buddhism (Shimbutsu Shugo). In the Sharyo ( lands belong to shrines) of Kamosya, there were no Buddhist temples except their Jingujis (Buddhist temples belong to Shrine) and the monks of them were not allowed to enter Sharyo.

In 1649, Kamo Sai and Mikage matsuri were restored and these monks made a complaint. The Imperial court and Tokugawa Shogunate asked the reason to Kamosha.

It replied, “天下之通則也.”

七里ヶ浜親方

The sentence means “Obvious. No wonder, isn’t it?”

And it also said “due to this, Saioh uses Imikotoba.”

シカさん

Imikotoba means words not to be used in a situation where something bad or evil must be avoided. Saioh was a priestess who served for deities of Kamo and had to be free from these words.

In the end, they maintained the custom.

七里ヶ浜親方

In contrast to Gion Matsuri, it’s SO interesting. In Gion Matsuri, we cannot separate Shinto and Buddhism. The earliest Gion Matsuri is called Gion Goryoe.  Gorye is a Buddhist ceremony. Gion Goryoe started for the purpose of getting rid of a cause of the epidemics and natural the disasters in 863. The cause was a curse of Gozutenno.

Ancient people thought curse of someone, including deities, brought them bad things like epidemics and natural disasters. That is an idea hiding behind Shinto (primitive one) and indigenous to Japan.

In Japan, Buddhism was imported from India in the 6th century. Since then, Shinto and Buddhism started to fuse. This phenomena is called Shibutsu-Shugo and Gion Goryoe in 863 is considered as a good example of the maturity of it.

On the other hand, Kamo Sai refused Shibutsu-Shugo. In Kamo Sai, a cause of natural disasters is a curse of the deities of Kamo. And Kamo Sai tries to get rid of the cause only in Shinto-way.

What is Gyokei no Gi?

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi (斎王代御禊の儀) is a ritual held on 4th of May, prior to Aoi matsuri festival. In this ritual, “Saiohdai” purifies herself at a stream of Kamigamo shrine or Shimogamo shrine in every other year. In 2024/ Reiwa 6, it will be held at Shimogamo shrine.

Who is Saiohdai?

Saiohdai (斎王代) means that a substitute of Saioh. Saioh is a priestess served for Aoi matsuri festival in ancietn times. She was chosen in the royal family (mostly a daughter of the emperor) usually. Today, we don’t have the priestess. On the other hand, a lady plays a role of Saioh in Aoi matsuri fesitival and the other rituals belong to it. We discuss about her later in historical point of view.

The video of Saioh da Gyokei no gi

Before making an inspection of the ritual, enjoy Goyokei no Gi.

Gyokei no Gi at Kamigamo shrine 御禊の儀於上賀茂神社

Along the video we saw, let us make sure what Gyokei no Gi is.

The stream in front of Saiohdai is the Nara no Ogawa. There are streams called Omonoigawa and Mitarashi gawa in Kamigamo shrine.

In Japan, we think water purify something evil. These stream go around the main hall of the shrine to tell the border of the sacred and the secular world. They get together and make Nara no Ogawa. So, the stream is also sacred. So, Saohdai make herself purified herself, touching the water of the stream. At Gyokei no Gi, only Saiohdai does this though many ladies participate in the ritual.

On the same reason, rituals to make attendants purified take place in front of the stream and a building called Tsuchinoya, located by it.

After that, all the ladies move to a bridge called Hashidono. On it, they put evil things inside of them on a human-shaped object called Katashiro. The Katashiro for Saiohdai is made of wood though the others are made of paper.

Gyokei no Gi at Shimogamo shrine 御禊の儀於下鴨神社

At Shimogamo shrine, Gyokei no gi is held at Mitarashi ike, a small stream in front of Inoue sha, the sub-shrine of Shimogamo shrine.

You see a white tent. There are seats of relatives of Saiohdai under it. The place where red corns located is for press.

For us, there is a small room left to see the ritual. The ritual starts at 10 a.m. and she touches the stream around 11 a.m.

After the ritual, they move to Shinpukuden to have a photo session.

Saiou-dai in Aoi matsuri festival in historical point of view

Who is Saioh?

Saioh-dai is a most famous lady in Aoi matsuri festival (The lady in the picture above.). The word “dai” means a substitute for someone/something in Japanese. So let me tell you about “Saioh”.

Saioh is a Shinto priestess works as a deputy of the emperor. In the Heian period, when the new emperor was enthroned, a fortune-teller chose Saiou among unmarried ladies in the imperial family on a special fortune-telling.

Once a lady was elected as Saioh, she moved to a small palace called “Hatsu sai in” to purify herself for three years. After the purification of three years, she moved to a small palace temporary built for Saiou called “Nomiya” and purified herself at the river Kamo. After these purification, she was in a state to serve as a deputy of the emperor.

Saiou became extinct in Kamakura period (1185–1333) and was restored as “Saiou-dai” We call her “Saiou-dai” i.e. the substitute for Saiou because she was not erected among the members of the royal family nor is Shinto priestess.

Nomiya or Murasakino Saiin 紫野斎院

Nomiya is build each time Saioh was chosen by Onmyoji, a fortune-teller belonged to the Imperial court. It is believed that Ichiidani Nanano shrine is a debris of one of them which stands the test of time.

Goyokei of Saioh in The Tale of Genji

If you were interested in Japanese culture or literature, you might know The Tale of Genji written by Murasaki Shikibu. In the chapter ‘Aoi’, you can find a incident called “Kuruma arasoi”. That is a small conflict took place at Aoi matsuri festival.

In ancient times, Saioh departs Saiin (the red Torii in the map) heading for south. On Ichijoohji street, she met Chokushi, the messenger of the emperor, and his colleagues (the red alien). They joined together to go to the river Kamo.

The blue alien indicates the supposed place where Gyokei took place. It is “supposed” because the palce was chosen by Onmyoji each time and Gokei was carried out in many places along the river.

People only see Saioh when she was on the way of Gyokei.

How was Gyokei carried on?

The Nenjyu Gyoji Emaki, the guide book of the rituals in Heian period, tells us the ritual.

Around the river Kamo (RIVER in the photo), walls of cloth (3) were made. Inside of the wall, there was a tent (1). (2) is a train of outfit for court ladies. (4) is a torch. It indicates the ritual was held at twilight or night. (5) is a priest.

How to get to Shimogamo shrine?

From JR kyoto station

Take Kyoto city bus no.4 and get off at Shimogamo Jinjamae bus stop.

About Shimogamo shrine

2022

たけちよ

Kamo Ashizoroe shiki takes place though Aoi matsuri and Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi were canceled due to COVID-19.

Ashizoroeshiki is a ritual held prior to Aoi matsuri festival in Kyoto. It is held on 1st of May at Kamigamo shrine. In this ritual, the pairs and turns of Kamokurabeuma are decided. It has a long history: In 2019, the 953th Asizoroeshiki will be held on 1st of May.

The reserved seats 有料観覧席

The both side of the course, there are reserved seats. The east side (the left in the photo) is 500 yen for each and the west side (the right in the photo) is 1,000 yen for each. If it was a sunny day, we would get suntan. When horses run, it is prohibited to hold parasol because it reflects sunlight and make them frightened. It is banned to use strobe of camera for the same reason.

The horses

Ashizoroeshiki is a ritual held prior to Aoi matsuri festival. Emperor Horikawa asked manor of Kamigamo shrine to dedicate horses because of its importance. Due to this historical fact, the horses attend in Asizoroeshiki has name of manors. Following a  custom, horses dedicated by Mimasaka no Kuni Shidorinosyo (Okayama prefecture) and Kaganokuni Kanazuno sho (Ishikawa prefecture) made a pair. The pair runs preceding the other horses.

Norijiri, the jockeys are descendants of the Kamo clan. They starts practicing around 10 years old to prepare for the future Kurabeuma.

The saddles and stirrups are extraordinary beautiful with genuine silver inlaid work. They are dedication of Keisyunin. She is a mother of Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the 5th Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. She visited frequently Kamigamo shrine to pray for a birth of boy child. Thanks to the Deity of Kamigamo shrine, she gave birth to Yoshimune, she dedicated the equipment for Kamokurabeuma.

Chozu no gi 手水の儀於庁屋

Norijiri, the jockeys of Kamokurabeuma attend a ritual to purify them at Chonoya.

Omuchi Arai no Gi お鞭洗いの儀

In front of Kamoyamaguhi shrine, the sub-shrine of Kamigamo shrine, Jockeys put their horsewhip in the stream to purify them.

Joba Ashiarei no Gi 乗馬足洗いの儀

At Narano Ogawa stream in Kamigamo shrine, horses are purified with the water of the stream. This has another purpose: to get rid of heat from the legs.

After the horses, the jockeys purify themselves with the water.

Ketsuke no Gi 毛付の儀

At the Babaden, the judges know the conditions of the horse.

The horses start walking at the goal to start in zigzag way. It is called “Kyusetsu Nanka.” It means they walk to the south turning 9 times in zigzag. In the walk, they understand the condition of the course.

This is a traditional fence called Rachi. It is made of bamboo and leaves to make the damage to horse and spectator minimum.

Kuchi 駆馳（くち）

12 horses runs in the course. The judges decide pairs of them and their turns.

In Ashizoroe shiki, the jockeys in Noue （狩衣）outfit.

On the other hand, they are in Hoh（袍）, the dancing outfit because winner used to dance in front of the emperor in ancient times.

Kyochi 競馳（きょうち）

In Kyochi, the horses runs in a pair decided in Kuchi.

Tasukinori no Gi 襷乗の儀（たすきのりのぎ）

After Kyochi, the jockeys give theri prayers to Kamigamo shrine in front of the Torii gate.

They head for Babaden to make the judges sure that their decision were right or wrong.

Kanpai no Gi 勧盃の儀

In this ritual, Ashizoroe shiki finishes.

Access to Kamigamo shrine

  From JR Kyoto station

Take subway Karasuma line and get off at Kitaoji station. From Kitaoji bus terminal adjacent to Kitaoji station, take the bus no. 37 and get off at Kamigamo misonobashi bas stop.

About Kamigamo shrine

The oldest parade for Shinto Deity

Mikage matsuri festival means important rituals held prior to Aoi matsuri festival.

The most important ritual is Miare shinji held on the 12th May at Mikage shrine. On the very day, the Deity of Shimogamo shrine is born there. Priests put him on a Shinme horse’s (神馬。A horse dedicated to a Snito Deity.) back and parade to Shimogamo shrine. The parade is called Shikou-retsu (神幸列). Shinko-retsu is a column to bring Shito Deity to some place.

We can find Shinko-retsu in many matsuri festivals Shinto shrines hold. For example, priests put the Deity of Heian Jingu shrine into a litter and bring him to Kyoto Imperial palace in the Shinko-retsu of Jidai matsuri festival.

Among many Shinko-retsu, that of Mikage matsuri festival is the oldest one. Its history dates back to around 581 A.C., in the rein of the emperor Suizei, the 2nd emperor of Japan (The emperor Akihito is 125th emperor and his descendant).

The parade departs Mikage shrine and heads for Shimogamo shrine by way of Kamohani shrine.

From top to bottom, the torii gates in the map indicate Mikage shrine, Kamohani shrine and Shimogamo shrine.

Why is new Deity born every single year?

Sometimes, Shinto Deity has two aspects like yin and yang: Tender and rough.

The tender aspects is called “Nigi mitama (和魂)”. It gives us anything good like harvest. On the other hand, the evil aspects called “Aramitama (荒魂)” gives us anything bad like disasters. We put these Nigi mitama and Aramitama together and have a supreme state of Deity to prepare for important ritual like Aoi matsuri.

Let me show you an example. The boy on his steed is “Kuze-kamagata chigo (久世駒形稚児)” in Gion matsuri festival. The Aramitama of Susanoo no mikoto, the Deity of Yasaka shrine is in the horse neck Kuze-komagata chigo holds in the chest. In the mail hall, the Nigi mitama and Ara mitama of Susanoo no mikoto come together.

In Aoi matsuri, aramitama of the Deity of shimogamo shrine is born at Mikage shrine and Nigimitama waits for it at Shimogamo shrine.

Breaking report

5/12 Mikage Matsuri

Mikage Matsuri took place and the priests brought the spirit of the deity to Shimogamo

shrine.

Itinerary for Mikage matsuri festival　作戦

The column of Mikage matsuri departs Shimogamo shrine for Mikage shrine and comes back to Shimogamo shrine by way of Kamo hani shrine. I’ll show you an itinerary to attend the rituals in these 3 places. You can see all of them.

Kanpai no gi at Shimogamo shrine　勧盃の儀

9:00 a.m. at Shimogamo shrine

At a square field near Mitarashi gawa stream in Shimogamo shrine, priests hold Jyuge shinji ritual. It is a ritual of purification. I suspect priest purify themselves in it (There is scarce information about it.).

After Jyuge shinji, in Kanpai nogi ritual, the priests purify participates of a column with “Ohnusa” the priest in red holds in his hands. Fortunately, those who observe the parade can also be purified!

The column departs Shimogamo shrine to Mikage shrine.

Waving good-bye to the column, we head for Demachi Yamani station to catch a train. It departs the staiton at 10:07 a.m..

10:07 a.m. Demachi Yanagi sta.

Take the Eizan line train for Yase hieizan guchi. It departs at 10:07 a.m.. Don’t miss it, or you are late for Miare shinji ritual at Mikage shrine.

REPEAT DO NOT MISS THE TRAIN OF 10:07

“Kamigamo shrine” is a de facto name of “Kamo wake ikazuchi shrine”. It enshrines “Kamo-wake ikazuchi no kami”, the deity of vigorous thunder.

“Kamo” means the Kamo clan which inhabited around the northern part of ancient Kyoto.

“Ikazuchi” has the same meaning as “Kaminari”. We can devide the word into two words. “kami” and “nari”. “Kami” means deity and “nari” means “sound”. The origin of the word “kaminari” is “Sound made by deity”. So, we adored thunder with awe. in the ancient times.

The official history of Kamigamo shrine indicates the deity descended on the mt. Koyama.

On the other hand, Yamashiro no kuni Fudoki (the report of ancient Kyoto province), indicates that: Tamayoribime found an arrow and brought back it to home. She put it on her bedroom and it made her pregnant.

In 709 A.C., the capital moved to Kyoto from Nara. After the transfer of the capital, Kamigamo shrine was enlisted in “Nijyu-nisya (22 shrines) ” which protects the capital. When our country was in a critical condition, like huge expansion of epidemic,  Nijyu-nisya shrines received dedication of the Imperial court. Niju-nisya desereved this highest honor.

Around the late 15th century, the dedication ceased because the largest civil war in the Medieval ages in Japan took place and the Imperial court was on decline politically and financially.

Sometimes the Imperial court tried to resume the dedication only to fail.

In the 19th century, Kamogamo shrine was enlisted as one of three “Chokusai-sya”. Chokusai-sya is a shrine which deserves a visit of a messenger of the emperor. Kamigamo shrine still is in Chokusai-sya. At Aoi matsuri festival, the emperor send his messenger.

Today, Kamigamo shrine has 2 National Treasures of Japan and is listed as the world Heritage site.

The crest of Kamogamo shrine

The crest of Kamigamo shrine is “Aoi (the leaves in the picture. The crests are embroidered in the red part of the wooden curtain behind the leaves. )”.  The word is devided into two words and  the words transformed “Ahu” and “Hi” each other in the old Japanese language. These words mean “We see Deity”.

Yatagarasu 　八咫烏

We often see a three-legged crow in Kamigamo shrine. The crow is called “Yatagarasu”. It guided the emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, through his Odyssey. It is believed that Yatagarasu is Kamo wake taketsunumi no mikoto, the founder of the Kamo clan.

He is enshrined in Kuga shrine, the sub-shrine of Kamigamo shrine.

What to see in Kamigamo shrine? みどころ

Main building (National treasure) 本殿

The main hall of Kamigamo  shrine is listed as National treasures of Japan because it has typical “Nagare-zukuri” construction. Take a look at the picture above. The front side of the roof of the shrine is longer than the back side of it. That is a “Nagare-zukuri”. (The shrine in the photo is not a main building of Kamigamo shrine.)

Though the main hall is National treasure, we can’t see it usually. Click the picture of Nakamon gate above.  You can see a banner kanjis and 42 are written. Under the banner, there is a gate and we can’t go beyond the gate except special occasion.

The picture and the video above tell you what is like inside of the Nakamon gate. The picture was taken in a ritual called “Hakuba sohran shinji”. In the ritual, we let the Deity see a horse. So, he stands in front of the main building. He sees ahead a small corridor, a place filled with white pebbles, and the main building. In the video, a priestess is on the corridor and let him eat soy beans.  If the emperor pays a visit to the shrine, he prays on the pebbles. He is the only person to be there.

In special occasion, we can be the same place where the horse stands in the picture.

The main hall has a corridor around it and there is a pair of Komainu. (We cannot take picture of the main hall.) Kamainu is a guardian of shrine and temple.

The peculiar thing in Kamigamo shrine is that it has two-main halls. “Honden (main hall)” and “Gonden (sub-hall)”. Gonden is a substitute for Honden in case of emergency in which we cannot use Honden and “Shikinen-sengu”.

Shikinen-sengu is a reconstruction of a main hall of the Shinto shrine. Around 10 of 80,000 shrines carry it on. Kamigamo shrine practices it every 20 years. Originally, Shikinen sengu needs reconstruction of the building but that of Kamigamo shrine exercise only the reconstruction of the roof because we cannot make large modification of properties of Natonal treasure in terms of law. We have a good example. As I indicated in the article of Kinkakuji temple, the golden pavilion was  caught by fire to burnt out. When it happened, Kinkakuji was listed as National treasure. The government crossed Kinkakuji off the list of National Treasure for the purpose of reconstruction.