Mitama is a sprit of the deceased. Ancient people thought it caused natural disasters and epidemics. In this post, I’ll show you how people managed them in order to accomplish to the peace. 合掌

Nature, Kami, and Tatari　自然の背後の神とその祟り

As stated in this post, our ancestors admired Kami behind nature. When people suffered from natural disasters, famines, epidemics and so on, they thought the cause of them are Tatari (祟り) of Kami.

たけちよ

Tatari is misfortunes or bad incidents brought by Kami in anger and irritation. They are angry with many reasons. To calm them down, people held Matsuri.

For example, Aoi Matsuri was originally held due to the natural disasters. They found Kaomo no Ohkami was irritated due to mal-practiced rituals and ceremonies.

The faith of Goryo 御霊信仰

御霊 (Goryo) is also pronounced as Mitama. 御 is a prefix indicates respect and 霊 is a sprit. Ancient people thought that once we died, our spirit left our body. They believed the spirit of the deceased stay near her descendants to save them from misfortune forever.

たけちよ

This is the most important and fundamental thing to understand the faith of Goryo. When we die, our sprit leaves our body and we become a guardian of our descendants. This idea also is a foundation of Gozan Okuribi.

Around the 8th century, a centralized government was established and many political conflicts happened in the developing society. People started to think that the cause of the natural disasters are Tatari (祟り) of the Goryo (Mitama) of the victims of these conflicts.

シカさん

This time, Tatari is brought by the person passed away in the conflict with great resentment.

七里ヶ浜親方

People thought their Tatari brought disasters as…a kind of vendetta.

To get rid of Tatari, the cause of disasters, people tried to calm Goryo (Mitama) down half in fear, half in respect. This is the fatih of Goryo.

たけちよ

Half in fear, half in respect. This attitude is called Ifu (畏怖). In a nutshell, people thought they are the same as Kami.

Goryo-e 御霊会

Goryo-e is Buddhist ritual held in order to calm Goryo(Mitama) down and get rid of it. People entertained Mitama with the Sutras and performances and sent it to a far-out place.

たけちよ

This time the aim is to get rid of Mitama. As I tell you later, people started to enshrine it as Kami.

In early days, it seemed some private Goryo-e took place. The first official and recorded one is Shinsen-en Goryo-e in 863 stated in Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku(『日本三大実録』), the history book in the 10th century. The archipelago suffered from the epidemic and the imperial court find the cause of the Tatari of the politically ousted six persons. The most famous one is Sawara Shinoh. He is a brother of emperor Kanmu and ousted from the Imperial Court on the suspicion of the involvement of the assassination of an court noble. He was starved on the way to the penal place.

The Goryo-e of 863 is extraordinary important:

1. Shnbutsu Shugo, the fusion of Shinto and Buddhism, was matured because there is idea of Tatari belong to Shinto, not Buddhism. And they tried to get rid of it by Goryo-e, the Buddhist ceremony.
2. The ritual privately took place became the one carried by the Imperial court. Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku describes that the Golden Light Sutra was dedicated. The sutra was the one for the safety of a country. For example, it was dedicated in the ceremony commemorate the construction of The Great Buddha of Nara which was constructed in order to get rid of the epidemics and natural disasters from the country.
3. It gave birth to The faith of Gion. In the faith, people thought Gozu Tenno caused epidemics and natural disasters. This time, Ekijin, the Kami who causes epidemics, came from outside of the community was added to the cause of Tatari. In the Goryo-e in 869 was held to calm down his Tatari. This faith is still alive because Gion Matsuri take places on it every year.

七里ヶ浜親方

Let me explain about #3. In ancient times. people thought when petals of flower fall off in early spring, they bring epidemics to the community and they came from the outside of it. As a prevention, they held ceremonies at the border. As time passed, they found the cause was Ekjin, instead of the petals.

Sugarawa no Michizane, the most feared Goryo　菅原道真公

The most famous Goryo is the one of Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真) enshrined in Tikano Tenmangu shrine. He is one of the most prominent court nobles. His clan was ranked low in the aristocracy but emperor Uda gave him one of the most important post in the Imperial court due to his highly-evaluated achievement. Fujiwara no Tokihira who belonged to the most prosperous clan at the time lied to the emperor for the purpose of  ousting him of the Imperial court. Michizane was sent to Dazaifu in Fukuoka prefecture and starved there.

Some years later, weird things happened:

• Since his death, Japan suffered from natural disasters and epidemics every year.
• Tokihira passed away all of a sudden. When he was dying, Buddhist ritual took place to heal him (The popular way to get rid of illness at that time). The phantom of Michizane appeared from Tokihira’s ear and tried to stop the ritual.
• Tokihira’s sister was a spouse of Emperor Daigo. Their son passed away young all of a sudden.
• Seiryoden was struck and burned out by the lightening. Seiryoden was a place where emperor lives in the Imperial Court. Due to the fire, many court nobles and aristocrats died. Emperor Digo shocked to death.

People rumored the cause of these incident was the Tatari of Michizane. The Imperial Court decided to enshrine the Mitama of Michizane in Kitano Tenmangu shrine as Kami.

There is an idea behind that. The Mitama of Michizane makes them suffer with the enormous power. The Imperial Court took advantage of it to save our country.

たけちよ

As I told you previously, First, people got rid of Mitama. Next, they enshrined them.

Summery

Mitama is a sprit of the deceased. Ancient people thought it caused natural disasters and epidemics. First, they held Goryo-e in order to get rid of it. As time passed by, they started to enshrine it to save them from these disasters taking advantage of its enormous power. 合掌

Misogi and Harae is the ways to get rid of evilness in order to prepare for something sacred. They are the deeds familiar to us and you’ll see them when you visit Shito shrine, Buddhist temples, ceremonies, events and so on. In this post, I’ll show you what they are. 合掌

Misogi 禊

Kegare (穢) is an anemic state of mind. Misogi (禊) is to bathe oneself in river or ocean to get rid of it. Misogi is based on a story in Japanese mythology.

Izanagi no Mikoto (伊邪那岐命) and Izanami no Mikoto (伊耶那美命) are parents/creators of the country and many Kami (deities). When Izanami gave birth to Kagutsuchi, the kami of fire, she got burned and passed away. Izanagi missed her so much that he went to Yomi no Kuni, the place for the deceased, to see his wife.

He asked her to go back to the world once her belonged. She said that she would ask Yomotsukami, the ruler of Yomi no Kuni, whether it was possible. And she asked Izanagi, “Don’t take a look at my body while I’m away.”

He broke the promise and found her corpse. She was so embarrassed and angry that she chased him around. He escaped from Yomi no Kuni narrowly and found himself in Kegare because he saw the extreme case of an anemic state of mind: Dead body.

シカさん

We think anemic mind could take our lives in the worst case.  He thought he saw the worst case of Kegare.

Kojiki put it: 是以伊邪那岐大神詔、吾者到於伊那志許米、志許米岐、穢國而在祁理。故吾者爲御身之禊而、到坐竺紫日向之橘小門之阿波岐、原而、禊祓也。

After that, Izanagi bathed himself in a pond to get rid of the Kegare he had in Yomi no Kuni.

七里ヶ浜親方

Traditionally, we believe in water which has a power to make anything reborn and come alive. In the last sentence, we find 祓. The 祓 is not the one in next chapter. It is means the same as Misogi.

Harae 祓

Harae is the way to get rid of Tsumi(罪). Tsumi is a thing to ruin our life.

たけちよ

Tsumi is usually translated as “crime” or something but it’s not the one we are talking about.

As Kegare, Harae also is based on a story in Japanese mythology:

Suasnoh no Mikoto made Tsumi to violate the order of Takamagahara where Amatsukami deities were. Due to his Tsumi, Amaterasu Ohmikami, the deity of the sun, hid away to a cave and the world went into a complete darkness. Other deities managed to pulled her out of the cave and the sun rose again. After the incident, they ousted Susanoh out of Takamagahara.

Kojiki put it: 於是八百萬神共議而、於速須佐之男命負千位置戸、亦切鬚及手足爪令祓而、

In a nutshell, the sentence says that they asked him to hand in things to make up for his Tsumi. And they also cut his nails and beard off.

シカさん

Ancient people thought they put their Tsumi into a part of their body they can remove. And they using it as a tool of getting rid of their Tsumi.

七里ヶ浜親方

Today, Tsumi means the deeds to violate the social norms and our inadequate or un acceptable attitude.

たけちよ

But we cannot tell Tsumi from Kegare exactly today. As described later, we get rid of Tsumi and Kegare in Nagoshi no Harae.

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi and what we do 斎王代御禊の儀と我々の行為

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi is a ceremony held prior to Aoi Matsuri. Saioh dai is a lady plays a role of Saioh.

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi 2026 at Shimogamo shrine: The most famous ritual prior to Aoi matsuri festival in Kyoto

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi 2026 is one of the most important rituals held prior to Aoi matsuri festival. In this article, we learn about Gyokei no Gi in historical point of view and who is Saioh/Saiohdai.

kyotokankoyagi.com

2019.04.30

Saioh is a priestess served for Kamosha (Kamigamo shrine and Shimogamo shrine) on behalf of an emperor when Aoi Matsuri was held. Saioh was under Kessai (潔斎) for years preparing for Aoi Matsuri.

シカさん

Kessai is a way to get rid of evilness to be in a state to see something/ someone sacred. IDEST, She exercised Misogi and Harae. As described in The Tale of Genji, Saioh practiced Misogi at the bank of the Kamo river in old days.

Today, Saiohdai carries out Misogi and Harae in the ceremony.

Example of Misogi 禊

Misogi Saiohdai does

The Misogi in Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi is an abbreviated one: She just touches the stream.

たけちよ

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi is an event. It isn’t a ceremony or ritual and she isn’t a priestess. But the Misogi works though the one she did isn’t an authentic one. Actually, as we discuss later, we practice an abbreviated Misogi before we enter Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.

七里ヶ浜親方

Saiohdai do Misogi in order to get ready for the sacred festival.

Misogi we do

When we enter a Shinto shrine or a Buddhist temple, we usually find a basin like this. We did an abbreviated Misogi there.

1. Take a dipper in your right hand and pour the water over your left hand.
2. Take the dipper in your left hand and pour the water over your right hand.
3. Take the dipper in your right hand again
4. Pour the water in your left hand (Use the left hand as a bowl).
5. Rinse your mouth with the water hiding your mouth with your left hand.
6. Raise the dipper to let the water run the handle of it.

シカさん

We do Misogi in order to get ready for entering the sacred places.

Example of Harae 祓

Harae Saiohdai does

Harae of Saiohdai is an abbreviated one like Misogi. She uses a Hitogata as Katashiro.

Hitogata is a human-shaped piece of paper. Katashiro is a substitute for us.

Saiohda uses it as a substitute for nails and beard: She rubs herself with a Hitogata and breath out over it in order to put her Tsumi in to it.

七里ヶ浜親方

Saiohdai do Harae in order to get ready for the sacred festival.

Harae we do

On the last day of June, many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temple hold Nagoshi no Harae thorough the archepleago. It is a ceremony to get rid of Tsumi and Kegare. And some of them also hold Oharae on the last day of November. We use Hitogata as Saiohdai does.

たけちよ

As I said, we cannot tell Tsumi from Kegare exactly. We think we gain both of them in daily life and get rid of them in Nagosho no Harae and Oharae.

In both ceremonies, we use Hitogata as Saiohdai for the same purpose.

In addition to it, in Nagoshi no Harae, we usually do Chinowa Kuguri to keep epidemics away from us.

"Chinowa kuguri" at Yasaka shrine/ 2025 茅の輪くぐり英語で説明

A guide of Chinowa Kuguri 2025 @ Yasaka shrine. A story about Somin Shorai says that the Deity save us from malady with it. We always find it in June and July but we also find it in March to prepare for coronavirus.

kyotokankoyagi.com

2018.06.24

七里ヶ浜親方

We do Harae in order to lead our lives.

Summery

Misogi is the way to remove Kegare, the anemic state of mind and Hare is the way to remove Tsumi, the deeds to violate the social norms and our inadequate or un acceptable attitude. Both of them have its roots on Janapese mythology and we exercise them in abbreviated ways today.

THE GIST OF THIS ARTICLE

• Page 1　Schedule, What is Aoi Matsuri?
• Page 2　Saioh Dai 斎王代
• Page 3　Parade1: Chokushidai Retsu 勅使代行列
• Page 4　Parade2: Saiohdai Retsu 斎王代列
• Page 5　Shato no Gi 社頭の儀
• Page 6　Ceremonies prior to Aoi Matsuri
• Page 7　How to see the parade?

The following is the contents of this article.

What is Aoi matsuri festival?

Aoi matsuri festival is formally called “Kamo no Matsuri” because Kamo shrines hold it. The word “Kamo shrines” means Shimogamo shrine and Kamigamo shrine.

Shimogamo shrine’s formal name is “Kamo mioya jinjya shrine” and that of Kamigamo shrine is “Kamo Wake Ikazuchi jinjya shrine”. Both of them has “Kamo”, so we call both shrines “Kamo shrine” as a whole.

These shrines hold Aoi matsuri festival on the second “bird day (We put Chinese zodiac signs like bird, tiger, and other animals on the days in calendar.)” on May of ancient Japanese lunar calendar. In the present day, they hold it on 15th on May.

Aoi matsuri festival is one of “The three famous festivals in Kyoto (the others are Gion matsuri festival and Jidai matsuri festival)” and also known as one of “The three famous Chokusai in Japan”

Chokusai is a matsuri (festival) held under the order from the Imperial court. At Chokusai, the emperor sends “Chokushi”, the messenger of the Emperor to a shrine that holds Chokusai. Of course in Aoi matsuri, the emperor sends “Chokushi” to Kamo shrines.

In Heian period, “Matsuri” means nothing but Kamo no Matsuri among aristocrats. In Edo period, people called Kamo no Matsuri “Aoi matsuri” gradually because the participants of Kamo sai festival put leaves of Aoi, the crests of these shrine, on their outfits.

Reservation seat to enjoy Aoi Matsuri　2025

On 4/8

The reserved seats for individual tourists starts on 4/8, 10:00. Check the website of Kyoto Kanko Navi (in English) out.

Kyoto Imperial Palace 京都御苑

Shimogamo shrine 下鴨神社

Kamigamo shrine 上賀茂神社

たけちよ

Reservation seats are available at Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine.

Must sees みどころ

Shedule 葵祭日程

Ceremonies prior to Aoi Matsuri 前儀

The Parade 葵祭当日　5月15日

Ceremonies after Aoi Matsuri 後儀

The history of Aoi matsuri festival

The history of Aoi matsuri dates back to 6th century and it was called Kamo no Matsuri, a private Matusri of Kamosha. Kamosha means two shrines for the Kamo clans. Today they are known as Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine.

七里ヶ浜親方

Kamosha means Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine as described before.

Kamigamo shrine mentions that the Matsuri began when Kamowake Ikazuchi no Kami, the deity enshrined in the shrine, appeared in Mt. Koyama: People welcomed him with the horses ornamented with Aoi as indicated in an oracle.

On the other hand, Shoku Nihongi (『続日本記』) and put it:

In the era of emperor Kinnmei, there were many natural disasters and droughts. The emperor asked a fortune-teller named Urabe no Ikiwakahiko about the cause. (Japanese emperor is a ruler of the country and also the highest ranked priest in Shinto, the religion which has gratitude for the nature that gives us harvest. So, if anything wrong about the nature occurred, he is responsible for it.) The fortune-teller told him the cause of the natural disasters and droughts. It was a curse of Kami (Shinto deity) of Kamo. The emperor asked him to hold a ritual to ease the Kami of Kamo. This is the begging of Aoi matsuri festival as Kamo no Matsuri.

シカさん

It is not “curse” exactly. In this case, “deities curse the country” means that rituals don’t take place and the country doesn’t work as expected.

The emperor asked Ikiwakahiko to hold ritual and performed a horse racing in the sacred place where the deity was in. The each jockeys with a boar mask rode on the horses ornamented with bells. After the race, people enjoyed the fertility.

Even today, we can enjoy this horse racing. It was inherited in Aoi Matsuri as Souma no Gi in Kamogamo shrine and Yamagake in Miareno of Kamigamo shrine (This one is not open to us.).

七里ヶ浜親方

They devoted their energy to make the Kami entertained. This is one of the aims of Matsuri. Our ancestors found Kami behind nature and natural phenomenon and believed it behaves like them.

Check out the link below.

Why is Gion Matsuri celebrated? 祇園祭の意味を英語で説明

Gion matsuri has changed in many ways but its aim reminds the same for 1150 years. In this article, you can learn the exact reason why Gion matsuri is celebrated.

kyotokankoyagi.com

2019.06.20

In early 8th century, Shoku Nihongi describes many people came to Kyoto to enjoy Kamo no Matsuri and a low asked Kokushi (a kind of a prefectural governor) to make sure the Matsuri took place properly.

In 810, a conflict happened between emperor Saga and retired-emperor Heijyo gave rise to “the two Imperial courts.” Emperor Saga asked the deities of Kamosha to solve the conflict. In the end, it settled down and he sent his daughter as a priestess to Kamo no Matsuri in order to show his gratitude. This is the beginning of Kamo Sai-in the priestess involved in Kamono Matsuri on behalf of emperor. Today, Saioh-dai, a lady plays a role of Sai-in, participate in Aoi Matsuri.

Kamo no Matsuri was considered as one of the most important matsuris (festivals) in terms of the ancient Japanese law.

On the same year, it became one of Chokusais. Chokusai is a matsuri held under the order of the Imperial court. And in 819, it was added to the four Chushis. Chushi is important Matsuri next to Senso Daijo Sai, the Matsuri held when an emperor accede the throne.

As described, Kamo no Matsuri used to be a private Matsuri. In addition to it, it was listed as Chokusai, the national Matsuri. In a nutshell, there are two kinds of Matsuri.

A private ones were Miare no Matsuris in which people welcome a new-born deities. Without them, Kamo no Matsuri didn’t take place.

七里ヶ浜親方

Even today, this type of Matsuri is alive: Mikage Matsuri of Shimogamo shrine and Miare Shinji of Kamigamo shrine.

 

After these Matsuris, Kamo no Matsuri was commened:

Instead of Sai-in Gokei, Saihodai Gyokei no Gi takes place today. She makes Harae and Misoghi in Kamigamo or Shimogamo shrine.

Rotoh no Gi made a parade and Shatoh no Gi was held in Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrine individually. In the old days, people enjoyed Rotho no Gi as described in The Tale of Genji.

In 13th century, the Imperial courts and the aristocrats were losing their political power and Kamo no Matsuri was on the decline and Kamo Sai-in was abolished.

In the 15th century, Onin no ran, the largest-scale civil war in Japan, devastated Kyoto and Kamo no Matsuri ceased to exist in the 16th century. After that, it was recovered a few times only to fail. Finally, it was restored as Aoi Matsuri in 1953.

In Shinbutsu Shugo

Kamosai don’t allow the co-existence of Shinto and Buddhism (Shimbutsu Shugo). In the Sharyo ( lands belong to shrines) of Kamosya, there were no Buddhist temples except their Jingujis (Buddhist temples belong to Shrine) and the monks of them were not allowed to enter Sharyo.

In 1649, Kamo Sai and Mikage matsuri were restored and these monks made a complaint. The Imperial court and Tokugawa Shogunate asked the reason to Kamosha.

It replied, “天下之通則也.”

七里ヶ浜親方

The sentence means “Obvious. No wonder, isn’t it?”

And it also said “due to this, Saioh uses Imikotoba.”

シカさん

Imikotoba means words not to be used in a situation where something bad or evil must be avoided. Saioh was a priestess who served for deities of Kamo and had to be free from these words.

In the end, they maintained the custom.

七里ヶ浜親方

In contrast to Gion Matsuri, it’s SO interesting. In Gion Matsuri, we cannot separate Shinto and Buddhism. The earliest Gion Matsuri is called Gion Goryoe.  Gorye is a Buddhist ceremony. Gion Goryoe started for the purpose of getting rid of a cause of the epidemics and natural the disasters in 863. The cause was a curse of Gozutenno.

Ancient people thought curse of someone, including deities, brought them bad things like epidemics and natural disasters. That is an idea hiding behind Shinto (primitive one) and indigenous to Japan.

In Japan, Buddhism was imported from India in the 6th century. Since then, Shinto and Buddhism started to fuse. This phenomena is called Shibutsu-Shugo and Gion Goryoe in 863 is considered as a good example of the maturity of it.

On the other hand, Kamo Sai refused Shibutsu-Shugo. In Kamo Sai, a cause of natural disasters is a curse of the deities of Kamo. And Kamo Sai tries to get rid of the cause only in Shinto-way.

What is Gyokei no Gi?

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi (斎王代御禊の儀) is a ritual held on 4th of May, prior to Aoi matsuri festival. In this ritual, “Saiohdai” purifies herself at a stream of Kamigamo shrine or Shimogamo shrine in every other year. In 2024/ Reiwa 6, it will be held at Shimogamo shrine.

Who is Saiohdai?

Saiohdai (斎王代) means that a substitute of Saioh. Saioh is a priestess served for Aoi matsuri festival in ancietn times. She was chosen in the royal family (mostly a daughter of the emperor) usually. Today, we don’t have the priestess. On the other hand, a lady plays a role of Saioh in Aoi matsuri fesitival and the other rituals belong to it. We discuss about her later in historical point of view.

The video of Saioh da Gyokei no gi

Before making an inspection of the ritual, enjoy Goyokei no Gi.

Gyokei no Gi at Kamigamo shrine 御禊の儀於上賀茂神社

Along the video we saw, let us make sure what Gyokei no Gi is.

The stream in front of Saiohdai is the Nara no Ogawa. There are streams called Omonoigawa and Mitarashi gawa in Kamigamo shrine.

In Japan, we think water purify something evil. These stream go around the main hall of the shrine to tell the border of the sacred and the secular world. They get together and make Nara no Ogawa. So, the stream is also sacred. So, Saohdai make herself purified herself, touching the water of the stream. At Gyokei no Gi, only Saiohdai does this though many ladies participate in the ritual.

On the same reason, rituals to make attendants purified take place in front of the stream and a building called Tsuchinoya, located by it.

After that, all the ladies move to a bridge called Hashidono. On it, they put evil things inside of them on a human-shaped object called Katashiro. The Katashiro for Saiohdai is made of wood though the others are made of paper.

Gyokei no Gi at Shimogamo shrine 御禊の儀於下鴨神社

At Shimogamo shrine, Gyokei no gi is held at Mitarashi ike, a small stream in front of Inoue sha, the sub-shrine of Shimogamo shrine.

You see a white tent. There are seats of relatives of Saiohdai under it. The place where red corns located is for press.

For us, there is a small room left to see the ritual. The ritual starts at 10 a.m. and she touches the stream around 11 a.m.

After the ritual, they move to Shinpukuden to have a photo session.

Saiou-dai in Aoi matsuri festival in historical point of view

Who is Saioh?

Saioh-dai is a most famous lady in Aoi matsuri festival (The lady in the picture above.). The word “dai” means a substitute for someone/something in Japanese. So let me tell you about “Saioh”.

Saioh is a Shinto priestess works as a deputy of the emperor. In the Heian period, when the new emperor was enthroned, a fortune-teller chose Saiou among unmarried ladies in the imperial family on a special fortune-telling.

Once a lady was elected as Saioh, she moved to a small palace called “Hatsu sai in” to purify herself for three years. After the purification of three years, she moved to a small palace temporary built for Saiou called “Nomiya” and purified herself at the river Kamo. After these purification, she was in a state to serve as a deputy of the emperor.

Saiou became extinct in Kamakura period (1185–1333) and was restored as “Saiou-dai” We call her “Saiou-dai” i.e. the substitute for Saiou because she was not erected among the members of the royal family nor is Shinto priestess.

Nomiya or Murasakino Saiin 紫野斎院

Nomiya is build each time Saioh was chosen by Onmyoji, a fortune-teller belonged to the Imperial court. It is believed that Ichiidani Nanano shrine is a debris of one of them which stands the test of time.

Goyokei of Saioh in The Tale of Genji

If you were interested in Japanese culture or literature, you might know The Tale of Genji written by Murasaki Shikibu. In the chapter ‘Aoi’, you can find a incident called “Kuruma arasoi”. That is a small conflict took place at Aoi matsuri festival.

In ancient times, Saioh departs Saiin (the red Torii in the map) heading for south. On Ichijoohji street, she met Chokushi, the messenger of the emperor, and his colleagues (the red alien). They joined together to go to the river Kamo.

The blue alien indicates the supposed place where Gyokei took place. It is “supposed” because the palce was chosen by Onmyoji each time and Gokei was carried out in many places along the river.

People only see Saioh when she was on the way of Gyokei.

How was Gyokei carried on?

The Nenjyu Gyoji Emaki, the guide book of the rituals in Heian period, tells us the ritual.

Around the river Kamo (RIVER in the photo), walls of cloth (3) were made. Inside of the wall, there was a tent (1). (2) is a train of outfit for court ladies. (4) is a torch. It indicates the ritual was held at twilight or night. (5) is a priest.

How to get to Shimogamo shrine?

From JR kyoto station

Take Kyoto city bus no.4 and get off at Shimogamo Jinjamae bus stop.

About Shimogamo shrine

The oldest parade for Shinto Deity

Mikage matsuri festival means important rituals held prior to Aoi matsuri festival.

The most important ritual is Miare shinji held on the 12th May at Mikage shrine. On the very day, the Deity of Shimogamo shrine is born there. Priests put him on a Shinme horse’s (神馬。A horse dedicated to a Snito Deity.) back and parade to Shimogamo shrine. The parade is called Shikou-retsu (神幸列). Shinko-retsu is a column to bring Shito Deity to some place.

We can find Shinko-retsu in many matsuri festivals Shinto shrines hold. For example, priests put the Deity of Heian Jingu shrine into a litter and bring him to Kyoto Imperial palace in the Shinko-retsu of Jidai matsuri festival.

Among many Shinko-retsu, that of Mikage matsuri festival is the oldest one. Its history dates back to around 581 A.C., in the rein of the emperor Suizei, the 2nd emperor of Japan (The emperor Akihito is 125th emperor and his descendant).

The parade departs Mikage shrine and heads for Shimogamo shrine by way of Kamohani shrine.

From top to bottom, the torii gates in the map indicate Mikage shrine, Kamohani shrine and Shimogamo shrine.

Why is new Deity born every single year?

Sometimes, Shinto Deity has two aspects like yin and yang: Tender and rough.

The tender aspects is called “Nigi mitama (和魂)”. It gives us anything good like harvest. On the other hand, the evil aspects called “Aramitama (荒魂)” gives us anything bad like disasters. We put these Nigi mitama and Aramitama together and have a supreme state of Deity to prepare for important ritual like Aoi matsuri.

Let me show you an example. The boy on his steed is “Kuze-kamagata chigo (久世駒形稚児)” in Gion matsuri festival. The Aramitama of Susanoo no mikoto, the Deity of Yasaka shrine is in the horse neck Kuze-komagata chigo holds in the chest. In the mail hall, the Nigi mitama and Ara mitama of Susanoo no mikoto come together.

In Aoi matsuri, aramitama of the Deity of shimogamo shrine is born at Mikage shrine and Nigimitama waits for it at Shimogamo shrine.

Breaking report

5/12 Mikage Matsuri

Mikage Matsuri took place and the priests brought the spirit of the deity to Shimogamo

shrine.

Itinerary for Mikage matsuri festival　作戦

The column of Mikage matsuri departs Shimogamo shrine for Mikage shrine and comes back to Shimogamo shrine by way of Kamo hani shrine. I’ll show you an itinerary to attend the rituals in these 3 places. You can see all of them.

Kanpai no gi at Shimogamo shrine　勧盃の儀

9:00 a.m. at Shimogamo shrine

At a square field near Mitarashi gawa stream in Shimogamo shrine, priests hold Jyuge shinji ritual. It is a ritual of purification. I suspect priest purify themselves in it (There is scarce information about it.).

After Jyuge shinji, in Kanpai nogi ritual, the priests purify participates of a column with “Ohnusa” the priest in red holds in his hands. Fortunately, those who observe the parade can also be purified!

The column departs Shimogamo shrine to Mikage shrine.

Waving good-bye to the column, we head for Demachi Yamani station to catch a train. It departs the staiton at 10:07 a.m..

10:07 a.m. Demachi Yanagi sta.

Take the Eizan line train for Yase hieizan guchi. It departs at 10:07 a.m.. Don’t miss it, or you are late for Miare shinji ritual at Mikage shrine.

REPEAT DO NOT MISS THE TRAIN OF 10:07

“Kamigamo shrine” is a de facto name of “Kamo wake ikazuchi shrine”. It enshrines “Kamo-wake ikazuchi no kami”, the deity of vigorous thunder.

“Kamo” means the Kamo clan which inhabited around the northern part of ancient Kyoto.

“Ikazuchi” has the same meaning as “Kaminari”. We can devide the word into two words. “kami” and “nari”. “Kami” means deity and “nari” means “sound”. The origin of the word “kaminari” is “Sound made by deity”. So, we adored thunder with awe. in the ancient times.

The official history of Kamigamo shrine indicates the deity descended on the mt. Koyama.

On the other hand, Yamashiro no kuni Fudoki (the report of ancient Kyoto province), indicates that: Tamayoribime found an arrow and brought back it to home. She put it on her bedroom and it made her pregnant.

In 709 A.C., the capital moved to Kyoto from Nara. After the transfer of the capital, Kamigamo shrine was enlisted in “Nijyu-nisya (22 shrines) ” which protects the capital. When our country was in a critical condition, like huge expansion of epidemic,  Nijyu-nisya shrines received dedication of the Imperial court. Niju-nisya desereved this highest honor.

Around the late 15th century, the dedication ceased because the largest civil war in the Medieval ages in Japan took place and the Imperial court was on decline politically and financially.

Sometimes the Imperial court tried to resume the dedication only to fail.

In the 19th century, Kamogamo shrine was enlisted as one of three “Chokusai-sya”. Chokusai-sya is a shrine which deserves a visit of a messenger of the emperor. Kamigamo shrine still is in Chokusai-sya. At Aoi matsuri festival, the emperor send his messenger.

Today, Kamigamo shrine has 2 National Treasures of Japan and is listed as the world Heritage site.

The crest of Kamogamo shrine

The crest of Kamigamo shrine is “Aoi (the leaves in the picture. The crests are embroidered in the red part of the wooden curtain behind the leaves. )”.  The word is devided into two words and  the words transformed “Ahu” and “Hi” each other in the old Japanese language. These words mean “We see Deity”.

Yatagarasu 　八咫烏

We often see a three-legged crow in Kamigamo shrine. The crow is called “Yatagarasu”. It guided the emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, through his Odyssey. It is believed that Yatagarasu is Kamo wake taketsunumi no mikoto, the founder of the Kamo clan.

He is enshrined in Kuga shrine, the sub-shrine of Kamigamo shrine.

What to see in Kamigamo shrine? みどころ

Main building (National treasure) 本殿

The main hall of Kamigamo  shrine is listed as National treasures of Japan because it has typical “Nagare-zukuri” construction. Take a look at the picture above. The front side of the roof of the shrine is longer than the back side of it. That is a “Nagare-zukuri”. (The shrine in the photo is not a main building of Kamigamo shrine.)

Though the main hall is National treasure, we can’t see it usually. Click the picture of Nakamon gate above.  You can see a banner kanjis and 42 are written. Under the banner, there is a gate and we can’t go beyond the gate except special occasion.

The picture and the video above tell you what is like inside of the Nakamon gate. The picture was taken in a ritual called “Hakuba sohran shinji”. In the ritual, we let the Deity see a horse. So, he stands in front of the main building. He sees ahead a small corridor, a place filled with white pebbles, and the main building. In the video, a priestess is on the corridor and let him eat soy beans.  If the emperor pays a visit to the shrine, he prays on the pebbles. He is the only person to be there.

In special occasion, we can be the same place where the horse stands in the picture.

The main hall has a corridor around it and there is a pair of Komainu. (We cannot take picture of the main hall.) Kamainu is a guardian of shrine and temple.

The peculiar thing in Kamigamo shrine is that it has two-main halls. “Honden (main hall)” and “Gonden (sub-hall)”. Gonden is a substitute for Honden in case of emergency in which we cannot use Honden and “Shikinen-sengu”.

Shikinen-sengu is a reconstruction of a main hall of the Shinto shrine. Around 10 of 80,000 shrines carry it on. Kamigamo shrine practices it every 20 years. Originally, Shikinen sengu needs reconstruction of the building but that of Kamigamo shrine exercise only the reconstruction of the roof because we cannot make large modification of properties of Natonal treasure in terms of law. We have a good example. As I indicated in the article of Kinkakuji temple, the golden pavilion was  caught by fire to burnt out. When it happened, Kinkakuji was listed as National treasure. The government crossed Kinkakuji off the list of National Treasure for the purpose of reconstruction.

歴史的観点

上賀茂神社の正式名称は「賀茂別雷神社（かもわけいかずちじんじゃ）」といいます。「別」とは「若」の意で、「若く正気のみなぎる雷」という意味です。雷とは大和言葉の「かみなり」は「神が鳴らす i.e. 神鳴り」に語源を持ちます。雷とは古来より畏怖の対象でした。例えば、菅原道真の怨霊は雷と結びつけられ、北野天満宮に祀られています。

上賀茂神社は、現在の京都の一部を支配していた「賀茂氏」という氏族の祖神たる「賀茂別雷大神（かもわけいかずちのおおかみ）という神様が祀っています。

平安京遷都以前、現在の京都がまだ山背国（奈良から見て山の後ろにあったのでこう呼ばれていました。平安京遷都に伴い、天然の城市のようだったので、「山城国」と改められます。）だったころから存在する、京都最古の神社の一つです。

社伝によると、神代の昔、本殿から見て北北西に位置する神山（こうやま）とよばれる山に賀茂別雷大神がご降臨になり、天武天皇の御代（8世紀）に現在の社殿が整えられたと伝えられます。

また、『山城国風土記』によれば、賀茂川から流れてきた丹塗りの矢（本殿の写真を御参照ください）を玉依毘売（たまよりびめ）が床の上に置いておいたところ、懐胎し、生まれて来たのが賀茂別雷大神です。

このように、元来は賀茂氏の信仰の対象でしたが、平安京遷都後は二十二社として、皇城の鎮護社の一つと鳴ります。

二十二社とは、平安時代の神社の社格で、国家の一大事に際して、朝廷から特別の奉幣をうける神社がこれに当たります。奉幣とは、天皇の命により幣帛を神社などに納めることです。幣帛とは神様への捧げもののことです。例えば、葵祭の幣帛は布です。二十二社のなかで、上賀茂神社（下鴨神社と共に、「賀茂社」と表記されています。）は伊勢神宮、石清水八幡宮に次いで3番目に位置します。（この三社は別格扱いです。）

また、『延喜式（今日でいう法律の施行規則のようなもの）』では名神大社に列せられます。名神大社とは霊験が顕著な神社のことです。

二十二社の制度は室町時代後期には機能しなくなり、奉幣は途絶えます。しかし乍、明治時代になると、勅祭社（祭の際に天皇の勅使が遣わされるもの）が定められ、上賀茂神社もこれに含まれます。葵祭では今日でも勅使が遣わされます。（ただし、行列の勅使代は勅使ではありません。）

現在では、国宝二棟、重要文化財四十一棟を有し、1994年にはその歴史的価値から、世界遺産に登録されました。

御神紋

葵とは『会う「ひ」』という意味で、「ひ」とは神様を表すそうです。（上賀茂神社ホームページより）

上賀茂神社と八咫烏（やたがらす）

賀茂氏の始祖、賀茂建角身命（かもたけつぬみのみこと）が、神武天皇が大和国に入った時、八咫烏に姿を変えて導いたとの神話から、上賀茂神社と八咫烏には深いつながりがあります。（写真は八咫烏のおみくじ）

賀茂建角身命は上賀茂神社の境外摂社、久我神社に祀られています。

建造物

本殿　（国宝）

本殿は流造（簡単に申しますと、屋根の前側がびよ〜んと伸びている造り）の典型として国宝に指定されています。（写真は模型です。上賀茂神社の本殿は撮影できません。）

しかし、上賀茂神社で特筆すべきことは、本殿が二つあることです。正確には本殿と権殿（ごんでん。「権」とは「仮」のような意味です。）という二つの建物があります。

本殿は他の神社と同様に神様が降りてくる建物です。上賀茂神社の場合も本殿は他の神社と同様です。この本殿の左隣に権殿があります。権殿は何らかの理由で本殿が使えない場合に用いられる、仮の本殿のことです。たとえば、式年遷宮の場合、本殿建て替え時には、権殿に神様を安置します。ちなみに、上賀茂神社は国宝に指定されているため、金閣寺の投稿で申し上げましたように、法律上、建て替えはできません。そこで、屋根の葺き替えを持ってこれに替えています。直近の建て替えは1863年です。尚、上賀茂神社の式年遷宮は伊勢神宮に敬意を表し、一年遅れで行われます

権殿は本殿と同様の機能を有するので、構造、調度品にいたるまで、寸分違わず本殿と同じです。

この本殿と権殿は普段の参拝では見えません。写真の門（中門）のところから遥拝します。お正月や祈祷など、特別の機会にのみ、近くまで行けます。

上の写真は後ほどご紹介いたします、白馬奏覧神事の様子ですが、神山号（馬）がいるのは中門の先（中）で、神山号の前に本殿があります。我々もお正月など特別の機会には神山号と同じところまで行けます。

のちほどビデオをご覧になっていただければお判りになるかと思いますが、神山号の前にはお賽銭をいれるところがありますが、これは廊下のようなところの上にあります。（巫女さんはここに座って神山号に大豆をあげています）そして、その先に白砂を敷いたところがあり、そのさらに先に本殿があります。

この白い砂のところは、確か天皇陛下しか入れない場所です。式年遷宮の一環でこの砂を敷くという行事があり、この時、本殿のほぼ真正面に行った記憶があります。おそらく本殿のすぐ近くまで行けるのはこの機会くらいしかないはずです。日本の庭園の原型は、砂（もしくは玉砂利や小石）を敷いて他と区切った祭祀のための場所ですが、ここはそれが保存されている例です。

他にも、京の夏の旅などのキャンペーンの時にも近くまで行けます。

この本殿と権殿には調度品の狛犬（たしか金と銀）が置いてあり、昔都でわるさをしていた狛犬を封じ込めたものであり、扉にはこれらの狛犬の絵が書いてあるのですが、この絵はロウソクの灯りで扉い映った影をなぞって描いたと伺った記憶があります。