THE GIST OF THIS ARTICLE

• This page　Who is Gozu Tenno? Gozu Tenno and Susanoo no Mikoto, Gozu Tennno as Ekishin
• Page 2　Amulets and general info.

The following is the contents of this article.

いちきしま　ひめ

This site and article don’t recommend outing though the state of emergency was lifted. Make your decision with extreme care.

This site cannot guarantee your safety.

The information of shrines and temples are subject to be changed.

This site is not responsible for any disadvantages you have at all.

たけちよ

This post has a Japanese edition.

Who is Gozu Tenno? 牛頭天王とは？

Introduction

In Japan, Shito and Buddhism had been fused for centuries. Yasaka shrine used to be a Buddhist temple called Gion sha, which enshrined Gozu Tenno. He is a Ekishin (疫神)Deity who saves us from epidemics. He was one of the most popular Deities in our country.

In the fusion, Shinto Deities and Buddhist ones were understood as the same one. Gozu Tenno was considered as the same Deity as Susanoo no Mikoto.

In 1868, as a part of Meiji restoration, the government separated Shinto from Buddhism and Gion sha decided to become Yasaka shrine and erased the name of Gozu Tenno.

Today, many people forgot his name but he is still alive as Susanoo no Mikoto.

Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu『三国相伝陰陽輨轄簠簋内伝金烏玉兎集』

When we talk about Gozu Tenno, we usually cite Bingo no Kuni Fudoki (『備後国風土記』), It is a geographical booklet compiled in the 8th century and describes Gozu Tenno enshrined in Ekikumasha.

In this article, I’ll show you who he is on Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu (『三国相伝陰陽輨轄簠簋内伝金烏玉兎集』) because it was written by a priest of Gion sha, and it describes the temple precisely. I referred to Bingo no Kuni Fudoki  as supplemental source.

七里ヶ浜親方

Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu reveals the mystic teaching of Omnyodo, the esoteric cosmology in which Shinto, Buddhism, Confusions, Yin-yang, and other values are merged. Gion sha was one of the outstanding temples exercised Onmyodo.

シカさん

Onmyodo is still alive today though people forgot its name. See the video below. It was a ritual held on the new year’s eve at Shinsenen temple, where Gion matsrui festival started. Monks turn the small shrine to the direction in which Toshitokujin, the Deity who rules directions, stays.

Gozu Tenno and Susanoo no Mikoto 牛頭天王と素戔嗚尊の習合

Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu

Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu describes Gozu Tennno:

“Gozu Tenno used to be a king of Magada, Shokitei, and Tengyosei. He descended to the world and was called Gozu Tenno.”

It also tells us how he looked like: “He wears a musk of yellow ox, has pointed horns. He looks terrible.”

Due to his appearance, he didn’t have a spouse. He headed for Shakara palace to marry Hari Sainyo, his wife to be.

On his odyssey, he asked Kotan Shorai a warm meal and bed. Kotan turned him down though he was rich. On the other hand, Somin Shorai, a brother of Kotan’s. Somin welcomed him though he was poor.

After that, Gozu Tenno reached Shakara palace and married Hari Sainyo. On the way back home, he exterminated Kotan’s family except Somin.

He said to Somin, “I will come back here as Ekijin to destroy the country in future but I’ll save you and your descendants.”

たけちよ

I’ll show you what Ekijin is later.

Bingo no Kuni Fudoki

Bingo no Kuni Fudoki  shows us a story almost as the same as the one in Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu. The differences are these:

Gozu Tenno is also known as Muto Tenjin. When Gozu Tenno met Somin again, he revealed who he was. He said, “I’m Haya Susanoo no Mikoto.”

Gozu Tenno is equivalent to Susanoo no Mikoto

Depending on these stories, Gozu Tenno and Susanoo no Mikoto is considered the same Deity in the fusion of Shinto and Buddhism.

We can’t tell when Gion sha enshrined Gozu Tenno. Yasaka Shrine says it did it in the 7th century.

Niju Nisha Chushiki, a complementary book of the list of 22 shrines the Imperial court compiled describes that Gion sha enshrines “Tenjin.” Some say the word means Muto Tenjin in Bingo no Kuni Fudoki but is is controversy because we have many “Tenjin,”  For example, we call the Deity of Kitano Tenmangu shrine “Tenjin san” in a colloquial way even today.

The most reliable source is a history book called Honcho Seiki compiled in the 12th century. It says that Gion sha was caught by fire in 1070 and the foot of (the statue of) Gozu Tenno was collapsed.  It proves that Gion sha enshrined Gozu Tenno at least in the 11th century.

七里ヶ浜親方

Gion sha had a golden statue of Gozu Tenno or Susanoo no mikoto. One day, a monk sold it. He was thrown in to the Yodo river alive.

シカさん

Goshintai of Susanoo no mikoto which Kuze Komagata Chigo wears in Gion matusri also was pawned.

Gozu Tenno as Ekijin 疫神としての牛頭天王

Gozu Tenno as Ekijin

Ekishin is a Deity who brings people epidemics. Ancient people believed that Ekishin or phantoms of ousted persons came to places they lived out of nowhere and caused epidemics. Gozu Tenno was the most infamous Ekishin.

As described before, he promised that he would save Somin and his descendant in Sangoku Souden Inyoh Kankatsu Hokinaiden Kin Ugyokuto Shu.

In Bingo no Kuni Fudoki , he asked Somin and his descendants to wear Chinowa.

Take a look at the piece of paper on Chinowa amulet in the photo. It reads, “我蘇民将来子孫也（I’m a descendant of Somin Shorai.) .”

Gion Matsuri started on this story. Ekishin is a Deity who bring people epidemics. People thought they can put down it when they take him away. This is the aim of early Gion masturi.

お福さん

Chinowa amulet we can have in Gion matsuri festival and Chinowa Kuguri are also based on this story.

As time went by, people started to welcome Ekishin on the other hand. I can’t tell why the exchange of roles happened. I suppose people thought Ekishin could help them with his extraordinary power if they adored him.

This kind of exchange is not strange for us. For example, Hososhi in Tsuina ritual used to be get rid of devil. As time went by, he was considered as devil because of his scary appearence.

Gozu Tenno saves us from COVID-19? 新型コロナウイルスに対するご利益

As shown in the last chapter, Gozu Tenno saves us from epidemics.

The last year, we are in the fear of COVID-19. In Kyoto, lots of events were canceled.

In such a situation, Gion matsuri was held in the abbrieviated way. Mikoshi and Yamahoko parade were can cenceled but the Deities of Yasaka shrine stayed in Otabisho in the downtown to be with us for a week for the purpose of saving us form the epidemic.

たけちよ

It sounds strange but that is the aim of Gion matsuri practiced every summer for over 1100 years. Enjoy the videos below, BAAH!!!

アフロさん

The next page is amulets

Awata Matsuri is one of the most underrated Matsuri in Kyoto though Kenbokos have something to do with Yamaboko floats of Gion Matsuri. In this post, I’ll show you the schedule of 2024 and must-sees. Check out Awata shrine website (in Japanese only). 合掌

What is Awata Matsuri? 粟田祭とは？

Awata Matsuri is the most important ceremony in Awata Shrine.

Awata shrine was founded in 876 by the order of the Imperial court and it enshrines Suasanoh no Mikoto(素戔嗚尊), Kushinada Hime(櫛稲田姫命) no Mikoto and other deities.

七里ヶ浜親方

The shrine was known as Ganjin-in Shingu (感神院新宮). Kanjin-in is a former name of Yasaka shrine. Shingu means “New or another Kanjin-in.”

On 9/9/1001, a child visited Gion-sha (a.k.a. Kanjin-in ) out of nowhere and said, “7 days later, to the north of Gion sha, you’ll find a good omen. Bring the deities there.”

7 days later, the omen appeared in a place we find Awata shrine, and Susanoh no Mikoto and other deities enshrined there. This is the beginning of Awata Matsuri.

As indicated previously, Awata shrine has something to do with Gion-sha. Actually, they enshrine the same deities: Suasanoh no Mikoto(素戔嗚尊), Kushinada Hime(櫛稲田姫命) no Mikoto and other deities. In Shinbutsu Shugo, the co-exsitence of Shinto and Buddhism, Susanoh fused with Gozu Tenno. The aim of Gion Matsuri is to get rid of epidemics and it couldn’t be accomplished without him.

In the 14th century, Gion Matsuri was canceled for a decade and Awata Matsuri was held on behalf of Gion Matsuri.

Schedule of 2023 日程

Awata Matsuri map 粟田祭マップ

• Red alien・・・Entrance of Awata shrine (2nd Torii gate)
• Green alien・・・Uryuisi 瓜生石
• Blue alien・・・See the photo below
• Train station・・・Subway Higashiyama sta.
• Bus stops・・・Jingumichi bus stop

シカさん

Enjoy the Hokotate (photo above). Around 16:40 on 10/9.

Must-sees on 10/12

Oide Matsuri 御出祭 17:30 at Awata shrine

The priest bring the sprit of Suasnoh no Mikoto to the portable shrine.

シカさん

Like Mikage Matsuri, the ceremony prior to Aoi Matsuri.

Gion Bayahsi music 祇園囃子奉納 18:10 at Awata shrine

This event is added to Awata Matsuri this year. (The footage of Gion Matsuri)

Breaking 2023

Iwami Kagura 石見神楽 19:30 at Awata shirne

Iwami Kagura tells us one of the most famous story in Japanese mythology. Susanoh fights against a huge serpent with 8 heads to save the life of Kushinada Hime.

シカさん

You don’t understand Japanese? Don’t worry. No words spoken.

Strongly recommended. Enjoy it with us!!!

Must-sees on 10/13

Yowatari Shinji ceremony 夜渡り神事 18:00 at Uryuishi

Due to Covid-19, Awata Matsuri was canceled in 2019~2021. Last year Awata Matsuri was held but Yowatari Shinji was canceled due to the hard rain.

Kenboko, huge torches and Awata Daitoro head for UruIishi, the stone Gozu Tenno descended.

• Red Alien   Entrance of Awata shrine
• Green Alien   18:30 Reiken Sai
• Light blue Alie   19:25
• Blue Alien   19:50
• Gray Alien   20:20
• Purple Alien 21:25

Awata Daitoro 粟田大灯路 18:00 at Uryuishi

Awata Diatoro is a restored Furyu Toro, the huge lantern. In old days, Furyu Toros was popular. Tokitsugu Kyoki(『言継卿記』),the diary of an aristocrat named Yamashina Tokitsugu, describes they are over 12′ in height and width. Some says they inspired Neputa of Aomori.

Usually, the deities of Awata shrine are theme.

We used to enjoy them at Higashiyama Hanatoro but it ended in 2022.

• Red Alien   Entrance of Awata shrine
• Red Cat   Starting point of Awata Daitoro
• Green Alien   18:30 Reiken Sai
• Light blue Alie   19:25
• Blue Alien   19:50
• Gray Alien   20:20
• Purple Alien 21:25

Some Daitoro is on the purple route.

Reiken sai れいけん祭 18:30 near Uryu Ishi

Reiken means “The Sacred thing appear.” In front of Uryu Ishi, Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies carry on.

And Kenbokos belong to Awata Shrine visit there.

Must-sees 10/14

Shiko Sai Saki no Gyoretsu (Kenboko)神幸祭　先の行列（剣鉾）12:20

Kenboko is a long Hoko with a small bell.These Kenbokos purifies the road Mikoshi will parade.

Sometimes, Kenboko was developed into the Yamaboko floats of Gion Matsuri but the original form of Yamaboko is Shime Yama in Daijo sai. Kenboko made some contribution to the Shingi rod of Hikiyama and the role of Yamabokos (Purification of the road for Mikoshi ).

• Red Alien   Entrance of Awata shrine
• Gray Alien   15:30 Higashiyama Sanjo crossing
• Blue Alien 16:45 Hokotate (check out the previous video) and Tsujimawashi at Sanjo Jingumichi crossing

Sinko Sai Mikoshi Togyo 神幸祭　神輿渡御　12:50

The deity on the Mikoshi leaves Awata shrine and strolls around Ujiko area, a place with a close relationship with a Shinto shrine, and comes back to the shrine around 18:00. The Mikoshi was built in 1862.

• Red Alien   Entrance of Awata shrine
• Green Alien 14:25 Uryuishi
• Gray Alien   16:40 Higashiyama Sanjo crossing
• Blue Alien 17:15  Tsujimawashi at Sanjo Jingumichi  crossing

Must sees on 10/15

Reitai Sai Hosho Ichijo Ryu Hocho Hono 例大祭　庖勝一條流式庖丁奉納 11:00

The chef of Hosho Ichijo Ryu cooks Shinsen food for the deities. He cooks a fish without touching it by hand.

シカさん

Traditional dance performance is also available.

About Awata shrine 粟田神社基本情報

Access to Awata shrine 粟田神社へのアクセス

Jingumichi bus stops (5, 46, 86 lines)・・・About 5 minutes

Subway Higashiyama sta. ・・・About 10 minutes

七里ヶ浜親方

The red alien is the entrance.

Hinamatsuri is one of “Gosseku,” the annual events, and held on March 3rd in Japan. Each family which has young girls displays “Hina Nigyo” dolls with flowers like Japanese plum for the purpose of praying for prosperous and healthy life for the ladies.

Gosekku 五節句

The word Gosekku means “five Sekku.” Sekku means a day between seasons in the ancient Japanese lunar calendar. Under the influence of ancient Chinese yin-yang philosophy, the Imperial court held “Sechie” to took away evil spirits and prayed for prosperous life. In Edo period, the Tokugawa Shogunate approved five Sechie as five Sekku, or Gosekku: Jinjitsu no Sekku (Jan. 7th), Johshi no Sekku (Mar. 3rd), Tango no Sekku (May 5th), Sichiseki no Sekku (July 7th), and Choyo no Sekku (Sep. 9th).

Hinamatsuri is held on March 3rd and is Joshi no Sekku. March in Japanese lunar calendar means April in Gregorian calendar. In April, Momo (plum/peach) flower is in bloom. Ancient people thought Momo kept anything evil away from us, prosperity and  healty life. So, Joshi no Sekku  gradually was begun to be referred as “Momo no Sekku.”

The short history of Hinamatsuri　ひな祭りの歴史

The origin

No one can tell when Hinamatsuri began exactly but it is believed that the origins of it is “Hina Asobi,” “Nagashi bina,” and “Amagatsu.”

Hina Asobi dates back to Heian Period (794-1192). In the period, young daughters of court nobles and aristocrats played with some kind of doll house. This play was called “Hina Asobi.”

At the same time, people had a ritual on March 3rd. It was “Joshi no Nagashi bina.” In the ritual, people put evil things inside of them on a human-shaped piece of paper named “Hitogata” and let it go away on a stream. (In the latter part of the video, you can see the lady does the same thing.)

シカさん

The lady in the video is Saiohdai of Aoi Matsuri.

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi 2026 at Shimogamo shrine: The most famous ritual prior to Aoi matsuri festival in Kyoto

Saiohdai Gyokei no Gi 2026 is one of the most important rituals held prior to Aoi matsuri festival. In this article, we learn about Gyokei no Gi in historical point of view and who is Saioh/Saiohdai.

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2019.04.30

In addition to it, children of court nobles and aristocrats had a doll named “Amagatsu.” Their parents gave them it to take on misfortunes for their daughters’ and sons’ sake.

七里ヶ浜親方

Nagashi bina is a kind of Harae on Japanese mythology.

Japanese mythology 2: Iwato Gakure, World without sun or Amaterasu Ohmikami

To under stand Japanese culture and its inheritance without the knowledge of Japanese mythology. In this post, let us see "Iwato Gkure," 合掌

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What is Misogi and Harae? 禊と祓を英語で説明

Misogi and Harae is the ways to get rid of evilness in order to prepare for something sacred.  In this post, I'll show you what they are. 合掌

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It is assumed that these three fused and made Hinamatsuri in Azuchi Momoyama period (1573 – 1603).

Hina Ningyo Dolls　おひなさま/雛人形

Overview

Sometimes, Hinamatsuri is equivalent to Hina Ningyo dolls. In early days, Hina Ningo means only a pair of dolls. Today, though it consists of many dolls. The set of dolls is typical Hina Ningyo. It is called Nanadan Kazari, or Jugonin Kazari. 15 dolls are displayed in 7 steps of stairs. Seven is lucky number in Japan.

Dairibina 内裏雛

#1 in the photo. The left is Mebina (female Hina Ningyo) and the right is Onina (male Hina Ningyo). They means ususally crown princess and prince. They are at the top of red-carpeted stairs. The red carpet prevents us from bad luck.

Sannin Kanjo 三人官女

#2 in the photo. They are court ladies and  in front of the Dairibina. They teaches lady ought to learn: Waka, ancient Chinese poem, behavior, and so on.

Gonin Bayashi 五人囃子

#3 in the photo. They are musicians to play Noh music with the traditional musical instruments they have to cheer up life of lady. They are in front of Sanin Kanjo.

Zuishin 随身

#4 in the photo. They are guardians and in front of Gonin Bayashi.

Sicho 仕丁

#5 in the photo. They keep anything tidy with blooms and dustpans they have. They are in front of Zuishin.

Others

#6 in the photo. Luxurious set of Hina Ningyo has many other dolls and pieces.

The place we can enjoy Hinamatsuri festival

Ichihime shrine

 Hiina Matsuri

So far, the schedule of 2025 is not announced.

シカさん

Blue Torii is Ichihime shrine and the red alien is Hito Machi Koryukan.

Ichihime shrine is a special place for ladies. The Deities enshrined there are Munakata Sanjoshin. They keep them from misfortune. On March 3rd, it helds “Hiina matsuri.” In Hiina matsuri, we can see “Human Hina Ningyo,” music, and dance performance.

In addtiton to it, we can experience traditional Japanese games. The photo is “Kaiawase.” It is a game resembles concentration. A pair of shell of Hamaguri shellfish is in the same shape. Players find a pair and turn around. If we had a pair, we would see a pair of picture inside of them. There are Mebina and Obina in the shells in the photo.

We also can experience other games. You can’t under stand Japanese? Don’t worry, they are so simple and you can enjoy them without words!

How to get to Ichihime shrine?

Kyoto city bus: Shimogamo jinja mae/Demachiyanagi Eki mae bus stop

Keihan railways: Demachiyanagi station

About Ichihime shrine

Simogamo shrine

Nagashi Bina

Shimogamo shrine is one of the oldest Sinto shrines in Kyoto. It holds famous Aoi matsuri festival. On March 3rd, it helds “Nagashi Bina.”

In Nagashibina, human Hina Ningyo, Maikosan, and kindergarten children do the same thing as Joshi no Nagashibina as described previously. Of course we also can experience the same thing!

How to get to Shimogamo shrine?

Kyoto city bus: Kawaramachi Gojyo/Kawaramachi Shomen bus stop.

About Shimogamo shrine

Schedule 2025

Rurikoin temple is not open to public through the year. We can visit it only in spring and fall.

11/30

Extraordinary in the morning light.

10/21

Today, the reservation of 2024 started. Check out the English page of Rurikoin (Google translate) and click “予約ボタン” and make reservations.

2023 Breaking

11/23　ヤギ撮影隊しっぽり闖入済

The Migoro 2023 kicks off. Now we can enjoy the leaves in green, yellow, and red. The best time to admire will arrive about a week later.

七里ヶ浜親方

Make sure with the video.

Some Aomomijis are still alive.

Rurikoin in Fresh Green Aomomiji 2026: 4/15~5/31 瑠璃光院青もみじ英語で説明

Rurikoin is one of the most underrated place to admire Aomomiji (Maple leaves in fresh green) though it established its reputation as a place to enjoy autumn leaves butIn this post, I'll show you how amazing it is.

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シカさん

Don’t miss the 1st floor.

11/11

たけちよ

The bridge is still missing. 

We’ll go to the other side but there’s no bridge.

We take the detour route. It takes about 15 minutes to reach Rurikoin.

In front of Yase Hieizanguchi sta., you’ll find this view.

シカさん

In the red circle, Kan Zakuras (Sakura blooms in fall) bloom.

From Yase Hieizanguchi station, go up the road and turn right.

You’ll find a bridge (red allow) and cross it. The white arrow indicates the bus stop for Ohara. I took this photo near the bus stop for Kawaramachi/ Kokusai kaikan.

Then you’ll find Cable Yase station. Climb down the slope.

We’ll reach the other side of the station.

Just walk straight. You’ll find people wait in line. The red allow indicates the entrance of Rurikoin temple. The road leads to Mikage shrine. Mikage Matsuri, the most important ritual held prior to Aoi Matsuri.

Mikage matsuri 2026: The most important ritual prior to Aoi matsuri festival 御蔭祭英語で説明

Mikage matsuri is a ritual held prior to Aoi Matsuri The most important ritual is Miare shinji held on the 12th May at Mikage shrine. On the very day, the Deity of Shimogamo shrine is born there.

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シカさん

Very important one. Aoi matsuri doesn’t take place without it.

七里ヶ浜親方

Mikage shrine is loceated in the middle of a mountain. Don’t go there. BEAR in the area.

10/10

七里ヶ浜親方

Migoro on 11/23/2022

We can make reservations at the website of Rurikoin temple (in Japanese only).

Night illumination is available at the website of JR Tokai tours(in Japanese only).

2022 Autumn leaves

11月23日　ヤギ撮影隊緊急入魂乱入済

In Migoro on November 23th. Check the video at 04:26. Now the bridge located between the station and Rurikoin is not available.  It takes about 20 minutes to detour.

A short history of Rurikoin

Rurikoin is a small Jodo school temple in the Yase mountain. It  belongs to Komyoji temple in Gifu prefecture. As same as some the famous temple like Kinkakuji or Ryoanji temple, it used be a villa.

Rurikoin was founded in 2005. It is a “new” temple because most of the shrines and temples in Kyoto were built in the Edo period (1603-1868). For example, the pagoda in Toji temple was donated by Tokugawa Iemitsu, the 3rd Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, to Toji temple. Thanks to its short history, Rurikoin is famous for “Yuka momiji”, rather than main hall or pagoda.

Rurikoin, 瑠璃光院, means “A temple in light of lapis lazuli.” Lapis lazuli is one of seven colors stand for “Gokuraku jodo”, or “極楽浄土”, the paradise in the Buddhism. The Jodo school was named after the word. It is open to public in the short period of time in Spring and Fall.

Yukamomiji of Rurikoin 瑠璃光院の床紅葉

Let me show you what “Yukamomiji” is. “Yuka” is a floor, and “momoji” is a maple (leaves). Yukamomiji means the way to admire a reflection of maple leaves on a floor. This is a peculiar way Japanese people take to enjoy something.

For example, on spotting pond or river, we thirst for “Mizukagami”. In Mizukagami technique, we considre a surface of water as a mirror, we love to see a reflection on it. We are not interested in things in parallel. As I described in the article on Komyoin temple, we love some idea in the Zen Buddhism. The idea is “即今、当処、自己”. In this, the moment we are in is the most important. A surface of water is easy to roar with subtle breeze or a touch of a falling leaf. We can adore Mizukagami only in a moment when a water is calm. As a common Japanese goat, I believe that’s the reason why we long for Mizukagami.

What is Mizukagami, a.k.a., reflection 水鏡につき英語で説明

Mizukagami is a reflection on water, especially pond. In this post, I'll show you what it is and the idea hiding behind it. 合掌

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What to see in Rurikoin? 瑠璃光院のみどころ

Sanmon gate 三門

This is the entrance gate of Rurikoin. We’ll discuss about it later, we wait in front of the gate before we pass through it. Don’t worry, it is not boring to waiting there because the maple leaves gain our expectancy on the Yukamomiji inside.

Yamaroji no niwa garden 山露地の庭

After the entrance gate, we find we are in Yamaroji no niwa garden located in front of the main entrance. “Yamaroji no niwa” means “The garden in mountain dew.”

In the garden, there is a stream surrounded by beautiful mosses. It reminds us that the temple we are entering used be an auberge.

Voila!  The autumn leaves in the Yase mountain!

[speech_bubble type=”drop” subtype=”L1″ icon=”i.jpg” name=”Ichikishima hime”] This is one of the most exquisite Autumn colors in Kyoto! [/speech_bubble]

Syoin builiding 書院

The beautiful gardens belong to this Syoin building.

Ruri no niwa 瑠璃の庭

Autumn in Ruri no niwa on the 2nd floor

“Ruri no niwa” means “the garden of lapis lazuli.” It belongs to Shoin building and we admire it on the 2nd floor. I said Yukamomiji is a reflection on a floor but in Rurikoin, we enjoy a reflection on a surface of a polished glossy table.

The most stunning moment in Ruri no niwa arrives with twilight. In the room, we have no artificial lighting. Only the very last daylight of a day caresses us.

The green maples in Ruri no niwa 瑠璃の庭の青もみじ

These days, green maple lures many Kyoto enthusiasts. Ruri no niwa has one of the most amazing green maples in Kyoto.

Autumn in Ruri no niwa on the 1st floor

Ruri no niwa of the 1st floor view.

In the room on the 1st floor, we can see hand scrolls and paintings. In the 1st picture, we can see many bodhisattvas. This hand scroll is called “Rai ko zu”, or “来迎図.” These bodhisattvas are coming down to the earth to help people in suffer. The stone in the 2nd picture is Lapis lazuli. In some occasion, Macha is served in this room.

Garyo no niwa 臥龍の庭（がりょうのにわ）

“Gary no niwa” means “the garden a dragon is laying down”. The small pond and rocks stand for a dragon ascending to heaven.

The relief work in the 1st picture is titled “The nirvana and the hell”. The bonze in the 2nd picture is Kumarajiva who translate “The Heart Sutra”, the most popular sutra in Japan, into ancient Chinese language. The Heart Sutra we adore today is the translation of his.

The outstanding translation in the sutra is “色即是空　空即是色.” It reads “shiki soku zeku, ku soku ze siki” and means “nothing has its substance. The thing we call substance depends on us”. Let me show you an example.

When I bleat, how does it sound?

In English, “Baaah.”

In Japanese, “Meeeh.”

They sound different because my bleat has no substance. My bleat depends on us (or the language we use.)

Ruri no niwa illuminated 瑠璃の庭のライトアップ

We are on the 2nd floor again. Ruri no niwa is illuminated as same as other gardens. Illumination in some landmarks somtimes rough lighting but that of Ruri no niwa is nothing but tender and calm. We can enjoy the maple leaves take advantage of the pillars as frame.

We are back to the 1st floor again. The 2nd floor is usually crowded many people. On the other hand, the 1st floor is very quiet.

Steam bath 釜風呂

The word “Yase” originally means “the arrow stuck in the back.” The name bases on a story of the Emperor Temnu; On his fight for regaining his throne, he narrowly escaped the enemy’s attack with arrows stuck in his back. He hide in a mountain we call Yasa today and he healed the wound in a steam bath there.

Due to the story, Rurikoin has a steam bath. (Sorry, we don’t take it.)

Let us copy Sutra! 写経体験

At the entrance, we can have a plastic bag contains brochure, pen, and Sutra copy kit.

On the 2nd floor, there is a room for copying sutra.

Never written Kanji? Don’t worry, all we have to do is just tracing the Kanjis. The sutra means the Buddha saves the people who believe in him and their lives will be fulfilled.

[speech_bubble type=”drop” subtype=”L1″ icon=”y.jpg” name=”やぎももさん”]We can bring it to our home![/speech_bubble]

How to enter Rurikoin

It is not easy to enter Rurikoin because we have lots of waiting time. The following is the way I took in the last fall.

1  At the blue alien, we buy an entrance ticket. The fee is 2,000 yen. On the ticket, the time we are supposed to be there.

2  By the time indicated on the ticket, we must be near ticket booth. On the indicated time, we form a row and walk to the blue alien.

3  At the blue alien, we wait in line for 20~30 minutes.

Attention: Rurikoin has many visitors and we might wait couples of hours. You better buy entrance ticket in the morning or couples of hours earlier than the time you want to be in the garden. Once you enter the building, you can stay there as long as you wanted by the time they close the temple.

Access to Rurikoin

10 minutes walk from Eiden Yase Hieizanguch station.

Komyoin temple is a tiny temple of Rinzai school. It is the best place to meditate in Zen garden though it has scarce visitors. Even Japanese tourists, except “Kyoto enthusiasts”, have little knowledge about it.

たけちよ

About Zen garden?

Zen garden or Karesansui? 枯山水庭園英語で説明

"Zen garden" sounds strange for us. It is a Karesansui (garden). In this post, we learn what Karesansui is overviewing a short history of it.

kyotokankoyagi.com

2023.06.12

The short history of Komyoin temple and Mirei Shigemori

Compared to other temple like Kyomizu dera, Komyoin temple is rather new to Kyoto. It was built in 1391 by Kinzan Minsyo as a sub-temple of Tofukuji temple. The Zen rock garden was built in 1939 by a famous garden designer Mirei Shigemori. He is the most outstanding garden designer in the 20th century. “Hashin no niwa,” the Zen garden of Komyoin is one of his masterpieces. We have scarce information on the temple and its garden but I suppose the huge typhoon in 1934 devastated the original garden; It put many temples and gardens in Kyoto into debris.

1934 is a critical year not only for the gardens but for Mirei. Japanese garden always has no blue prints. Garden designers and temples were at a loss for reconstructing them. He made large inspection on 300 temples and gardens for 3 years to find the tradition of Japanese garden designing, especially that of rock garden, was on the verge of extinct. His through study of the art of gardening and the odyssey around the archipelago for a third of a decade made him a Zen garden master.

Hashin no niwa, or 波心の庭, the Zen rock garden of Komyoin

What’s the meaning of the garden?

The Zen rock garden of Komyoin is called “Hasini no niwa (波心庭).” It is named after a Zen riddle. Take a look at the Kanji letters on the hand scroll in the picture above. It  reads “無雲生嶺上　有月落波心 (kumo no reijyo ni syozurukoto nakunba   tukino hasin ni otsuru ari ).”

An apprentice asked a Zen master, “What is the Buddhism?”.  He answered “If we have no clouds, we can see the moon on the surface (of water)”.

What did he mean? I’ll show you the answer later.

The best garden to meditate in Kyoto.

Let me explain the most important idea about the Zen Buddhism is “即今、当処、自己 (Sokkon, tohsyo, jiko).”

即今(sokkon) stands for “this moment, not yesterday, not tomorrow, not today.”

当処(tohsyo) stands for “here, or the place you are in.”

自己(jiko) stands for “myself.”

IDEST, the words mean “I live my life right here, right now.”

Zen garden is a place to exercise the idea. All we can do is to under stand the fact that “I live my life right here, right now”, not to meditate. Of course you can meditate if you would like to!

Let us be in the garden!

The construction of the Zen garden

The rock garden

Komyoin temple is known as “虹の苔寺(Niji no koke dera. Moss temple in rainbow.).” Mirei Shigemori is famous for his art of stones and moss. In Hasin no niwa, stones standing on a velvet-like moss showing off their physical strength. The ground covered with moss stands for “州浜 (suhama),” or beach with small inlets. Take a look at the place the arrow indicates. There are small stones. They indicate splash of sea water for which white pebbles stand.

The garden has 75 stones. There are three grouping of three stones (Indicated in the picture with numerals) and the left. Each grouping stands for “三尊(sanzon), the way we line up Buddhist statues. In sanzon, we put main statue in center and sub-statues in the both side of the main. In the garden, each grouping means “釈迦三尊 (Syaka sanzon : Buddha, Manjushri, and Samantabhadra),” “阿弥陀三尊 (Amida sanzon : Amitabha, Guanyin, and Mahasthamaprapta,” and “薬師三尊 (Bhaisajyaguru, Suryaprabha, and Candraprabha.” And in the end, theses three grouping stand for Amida sanzon. There are five buildings to admire the garden.

“If we have no clouds, we can see the moon on the surface (of water)”, what does it mean?

The answer is “If your mind is clear, you can find the Buddhism in the reflection of the moon on the surface of water.”

The approach

Behind the entrance gate, there is an approach to the entrance. We gain the expectations to the garden.

観庭楼 Kan tei roh

Kan tei roh means “A house to see garden.” It is the largest building around the garden. We can have Japanese tea (Not always).

The entrance belongs to Kan tei roh.

It has stunning corridors. Each of them are made of one piece of long board. I’ve never seen such long boards in any other places. About 26 feet.

方丈　Hojo

The most important building. There are statue of Buddha and alter.

書院 Shoin

Shoin is a study in Buddhist temple. In this shoin, we can enjoy view of the garden through “吉野窓 (Yoshino mado).” We enjoy views of the garden through Yoshino mado as though it was a flame of a picture.

The glasses are hand-crated. Their uneven surface make the garden blurred.

 羅月庵

It is said there is a tea house to admire the moon on the east sky. It’s “Ragetsu an” but we can not find it. I suspect it is a house behind the maple trees.(indicated with the arrow)

両行庵 Ryo koh an

There is also a tea room. It is open to public in fall. We have a complete view of the garden.

Typical expression in Japanese language

Let us learn about Japanese language. There is a signboard at the entrance gate of Komyoin.

It literally reads; We don’t expect many visitors. If you don’t thirst for the garden, I’m afraid you better leave here because your entrance might hurt the pride of the garden. Before make your decision, ask yourself what you would like to. Behind this gate, behave yourself with decency. We believe in YOU. We thank you in advance.

It actually means; Behave yourself, or leave here right now. No rioters allowed.

Komyoin is a very solemn place. Only serious person has a permission to enter but if you said to visitor “Behave yourself, or leave here right now,” you would be a person with no decency. So, the writer warned visitor with gentle expressions.

It is a typical way in Japanese language; we don’t want to hurt others’ pride.

Japan and  Nature

Let us learn about one more peculiar thing in Japan. Take a look at the picture. It was taken inside of Kan tei roh. You can see the garden inside of a house and there are no walls. It is a typical construction of Japanese residence.

Instead of walls, we have “障子 (syouji), a sliding door”.  Shoji is put into ditches in floor and ceiling and we can pull it out easily. In the first picture, there is only one shoji but in the second picture, we can put many more shoji in the diches and these shoji work as a wall. This construction of house depends on our attitude toward Nature.

In Japanese language, Nature is translated “自然 (sizen)” but I suppose these words are quite different. The most different thing between two words is the way we treat it. For Japanese people, Nature is not an object at all. For example, we can say “We conquer Mt. Fuji.” There is nothing wrong with the sentence semantically but it sounds very strange to us because Nature is not an object to be conquered. For us Nature is not an object but a state; We are in Nature. This is the proper expression of our attitude. We are in Nature and Nature is close to us.

We detest to be separated from Nature and our attitude to it make large contribution to things indigenous to our country. 合掌

For seasons in Komyoin

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

About Kohrin-in

Official name　Enichi san Komyoin 慧日山光明院

Address　 15-809, Honcho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto city, 605-0981

Phone no.　075-561-7317

Official Website : Not available.

Open hours: 8:00am – twilight

Entrance admission fee:300yen

Access to Komyoin

Get off at JR/Keihan Tofukuji station. It takes 10 minuites to Komyoin on foot.